Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton x Label Noir: Urban Architecture In Motion
- January 2, 2026
Aikon, Label Noir and a Very Modern Skeleton
Maurice Lacroix has been quietly perfecting the art of “accessible high horology” for years (remember their Masterpiece Gravity from 2014 and 2021?), and nowhere is that more evident than in the Aikon line. Born from the 90s Calypso but sharpened for the modern city, the Aikon has become the brand’s angular, architectural signature in the crowded steel sports watch space.
Enter Label Noir, the Geneva based customisation atelier that has made a name out of turning already serious watches into shadowy, stealthy objects of desire. This Aikon Automatic Skeleton Label Noir is their latest collaboration with Maurice Lacroix, and it pushes the platform into full blown mechanical exhibition mode with a dark, urban twist.
The result is a limited run of just 100 pieces that feels far more “indie” than the spec sheet might suggest, with a genuine manufacture skeleton movement, black DLC case and those turquoise details that almost glow against the smoked sapphire. It is the kind of watch that does not just tell the time, it announces that you have very particular taste in mechanical architecture on the wrist (and you are completely okay with people noticing).
A Case of Urban Drama
On paper, 45 millimetres sounds intimidating, yet the case has been thoughtfully proportioned to remain wearable, with a thickness of around 12 millimetres and a relatively compact stance for such a bold presence. The stainless steel case is fully wrapped in black DLC, combining brushed and polished surfaces so light dances across the facets and the six claw bezel in a way that feels very “city at night under neon”.
The hallmark Aikon bezel with its six polished arms is all here, now rendered in satin brushed black with polished claws that catch reflections just enough to frame the skeletonised interior without stealing the show. A screwed down crown and solid construction give you 10 ATM water resistance, which means this is not a delicate showpiece, it is a daily wear sports watch that just happens to look like a concept piece from a design fair (and yes, you can absolutely get caught in the rain with it).
Flip the watch over and the exhibition caseback continues the theme, with a black smoked sapphire window that keeps things moody while still revealing the movement, framed by an engraving reminding you that this is a limited edition of 100. It is a detail that reinforces the feeling that you are not just wearing any Aikon, but a carefully curated, small batch variant that flirts with the Masterpiece collection’s territory.
A Dial that barely exists
Calling it a “dial” feels generous; what you actually get is a sapphire disc treated with translucent black lacquer, suspended over the calibre and edged by a vivid turquoise flange (super rare combination which really looks amazing!). This creates a layered effect where the printed minute track appears to float, while the blackened bridges and concentric skeleton architecture sit sharply below, like a miniature skyline viewed through smoked glass.
The hands are black with turquoise Super Luminova, and the small seconds register at six o’clock carries matching turquoise markings and a slender hand that sweeps calmly across its sector. Against the dark surroundings, legibility is far better than many skeletonised pieces, especially once the lume kicks in and those turquoise elements light up like a night mode interface.
What really works here is the restraint. Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir could have cluttered the sapphire with logos and text, but instead they let negative space and the geometry of the ML234 bridges do the talking. It is a watch that rewards a slow glance as much as a quick wrist check (the more you stare, the more you realise just how little “dial” there actually is).
Movement: ML234 on full display
Perhaps the biggest distinction lies under the hood, where Maurice Lacroix has dropped in its in house calibre ML234, a fully skeletonised automatic movement designed from the outset to be seen (see the photos of the normal Aikon Automatic Skeleton). The mainplate is carved into five concentric circles that radiate out from the balance and barrel, giving the entire structure a sense of radial tension and symmetry, almost like an engineered mandala for the mechanically inclined.
This is not a high beat speed freak; the ML234 runs at a calm 18,000 vibrations per hour, which gives the seconds hand a smoother, more deliberate motion and lets you actually appreciate each oscillation of the balance. Paired with a 50 hour power reserve and 34 jewels focused on long term reliability, it strikes that sweet spot between visual spectacle and daily practicality (you can set it down for a weekend and it will likely still be ticking Monday morning).
From the dial side, you can easily pick out the open worked barrel, gear train and escapement, all framed by that circular architecture; from the caseback, the smoked sapphire tempers the view just enough to maintain the stealth aesthetic while still showing off the rotor and finishing. This is not just a standard ébauche with a few cut outs, it is a movement purpose built for skeletonisation, which is a big part of why this particular Aikon feels closer in spirit to some of the more avant garde independent skeleton pieces out there (just without the six figure price tag).
Straps, Comfort and Daily Wear
Out of the box, the Aikon Automatic Skeleton Label Noir ships with two very distinct personalities in strap form. You get a dark grey nubuck leather strap with a debossed Maurice Lacroix “M” that leans into the stealthy, monochrome vibe, plus a turquoise FKM rubber strap with the brand’s name boldly embossed for when you want to lean fully into the contrast aesthetic.
Both straps benefit from the brand’s EasyChange system, which allows you to swap them in seconds without tools, turning the watch from understated dark mode to full turquoise accent hero in the time it takes your espresso to cool. On the wrist, the curved lugs and relatively moderate thickness help the 45 millimetre case hug the arm better than the numbers suggest, and the rubber strap in particular does a great job of distributing the visual weight so the watch feels more balanced than “oversized”.
The butterfly clasp, coated to match the case, clicks shut with the reassuring precision one expects in this bracket and keeps the whole package feeling cohesive and premium. If the standard Aikon has always felt a bit too conventional for your tastes, this combination of stealth case, vivid strap option and skeleton architecture might be exactly the reset button you were hoping for (timing pun absolutely intended).
Why it’s Special
In a landscape crowded with “open heart” dials and half hearted skeleton attempts, this Aikon Automatic Skeleton x Label Noir has a surprisingly clear identity. It knows exactly what it wants to be and does not apologise for being a bit dramatic about it.
- The ML234 was conceived as a skeleton movement, with concentric circle bridges and openworked barrel designed to be seen, not just modified after the fact.
- Black DLC case, smoked sapphire and dark bridges set the stage for those turquoise accents, creating a visual tension that feels genuinely modern rather than derivative of classic skeleton tropes.
- With “Limited Edition of 100” engraved on the caseback, this feels far more exclusive than the standard Aikon runs and edges into collector territory without losing its daily wear credentials.
- 45 millimetres with 12 millimetres thickness, 100 metres water resistance, sapphire with double anti reflective coating and robust strap options all point to a watch designed to be worn, not just stored in a safe.
- At around 6,900 CHF or roughly €7414 including VAT in the Maurice Lacroix online store, it delivers an in house skeleton movement and high end finishing at a level where many competitors still rely on standard calibres and less daring design.
Wrapping it up
For collectors who crave genuine mechanical theatre without sacrificing daily practicality, the Aikon Automatic Skeleton 45mm Label Noir lands in a very sweet spot. It blends Maurice Lacroix’s urban sports watch ethos with Label Noir’s monochrome drama and a true manufacture skeleton calibre, all wrapped into a 100 piece limited edition that feels properly special at around €7414. If you have been waiting for an Aikon that looks as bold as it performs, this might just be the moment to set your sights and let your wrist keep the conversation ticking.
Specifications:
Brand – Maurice Lacroix
Model – Aikon Automatic Skeleton x Label Noir
Case Material – Black DLC coated stainless steel, brushed and polished
Case Dimensions – 45 mm diameter, 12 mm thickness
Water Resistance – 100 m / 10 ATM
Strap – Grey nubuck leather strap and black DLC butterfly buckle, plus turquoise FKM rubber strap, both with EasyChange system
Crystal – Sapphire crystal with double anti reflective coating front, smoked sapphire display back
Movement – Maurice Lacroix calibre ML234, automatic skeleton, 18,000 vph, 34 jewels
Power Reserve – 50 hours
Limited Edition – Yes, 100 pieces with “Limited Edition of 100” caseback engraving
Lume – Yes, turquoise Super Luminova on hour, minute and small seconds hand, plus turquoise flange markings
Price – €7414 including VAT
Official store link here.
Image Gallery
About Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton x Label Noir: Key Questions Answered
How wearable is the 45 mm case on smaller wrists?
Despite the 45 millimetre diameter, the 12 millimetre thickness and curved lugs help the case sit relatively flat, and the rubber strap in particular makes it feel more compact on the wrist than the numbers suggest.
Is the skeleton dial legible in daily use?
The smoked sapphire and dark bridges are offset by bright turquoise hands and a clear outer minute track, plus strong Super Luminova, so reading the time is easier than on many skeleton watches, even in low light.
How limited and where can it be purchased?
The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton 45mm Label Noir is limited to 100 pieces and is available through the official Maurice Lacroix network and selected authorised retailers, with online pre order on the brand’s website.
