Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grand Date Review: Openworked Theatre on the Wrist
Aikon Ascending
Maurice Lacroix has been quietly but steadily sharpening its presence in the steel sports watch arena, and the Aikon is very much the standard bearer of that strategy. Inspired by the Calypso of the 90s, the Aikon line leans into bold urban geometry, integrated bracelets and everyday robustness that can hold its own against far pricier competition.
The Aikon Master Grand Date takes that ethos and turns the volume up, both technically and visually. It fuses the recognisable six claw Aikon case with the more expressive, movement centric language of the Masterpiece collection, culminating in a watch that feels like a small mechanical stage strapped to your wrist (and yes, it loves being in the spotlight).
This particular reference, is part of the Technicolour series, giving the familiar architecture a more extroverted palette with brightly coloured dials framed by a dark case (also available in Green, Black, Blue, Orange, and Dark Blue with a Stainless Steel Case). It is not a quiet watch and it is absolutely not trying to be.
Case and Dimensions: Statement Steel
The Aikon Master Grand Date wears unapologetically large with a 45 millimetre stainless steel case and around 14 to 15 millimetres in height, putting it firmly in modern statement territory rather than stealthy dress watch mode. The Technicolour version adds a black DLC coating over the steel, which not only reinforces the sporty character but also gives the colourful dial an even stronger frame.
Signature Aikon design codes are all present and accounted for: the angular case lines, integrated lugs and that instantly recognisable bezel punctuated by six raised “claws” that catch the light as you move your wrist. Despite the bold dimensions, the case curvature and relatively compact lug to lug length of about 53 millimetres mean it can sit surprisingly well if you are used to larger sports pieces (if you are a fan of big watches this one will feel 100% right).
Water resistance is a very practical 100 metres, helped by a screw down crown and solid construction, so you are not forced to baby it in everyday life, and you genuinely shouldn’t. Up front you get a sapphire crystal with anti reflective treatment, and the rear is fitted with a sapphire exhibition caseback that lets the ML331 movement show off its finishing and skeletonised rotor.
Dial and Display: Mechanical Theatre
The dial side is where the Aikon Master Grand Date really separates itself from the broader Aikon family and most competitors in the steel sports watch segment. Instead of a conventional central layout, the watch uses an off centred hours and minutes sub dial placed around 2 o clock, with an intersecting openworked small seconds display at roughly 4 to 5 o clock.
Between 6 and 9 o clock you get a wide irregular aperture that exposes the dial side regulation system, including a large traditional balance wheel with screw weights and a silicon escapement held under a curved skeletonised bridge. It is dynamic, architectural and frankly addictive to watch (if you ever wanted your watch to double as a fidget toy, this is a very refined way of doing it).
At around 10 o clock sits the “Grand Date” itself, a double window big date display that uses two separate discs to create large highly legible numerals. On the Technicolour model, the coloured dial plate carries a mixture of embossed and granulated textures, with contrasting applied indices and hands filled with Super LumiNova for night time readability. The net result is a dial that feels like a confluence of sports watch practicality and high end openworked drama rather than a simple time and date display.
Movement: In house ML331
Perhaps the biggest distinction lies under the hood, because the Aikon Master Grand Date does not rely on an off the shelf Swiss calibre. Instead it houses the in house automatic ML331, a manufacture movement that took roughly three years to develop and is derived conceptually from the earlier Masterpiece Gravity architecture.
The calibre runs at a relaxed 18000 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of about ~50 hours, trading a little beat rate crispness for a more stately sweep and a movement geometry that suits the prominent balance wheel. It features 43 jewels, an automatic winding system with a skeletonised rotor and extensive decoration including blasted surfaces, brushing, snailing and polished bevels, visible through the caseback.
Functionally you get hours, minutes, small seconds, the large date and of course that dial side exposed escapement which is not just a visual flourish but part of the core movement structure. This is a holistic design where mechanics and aesthetics are deeply intertwined rather than a stock calibre with a window cut in an otherwise standard dial (a detail that matters if you care about watchmaking integrity).
Strap, Bracelet and everyday Wear
The standard Aikon Master Grand Date is typically delivered on a five row stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp, though the Technicolour variant leans into its more playful persona with brightly coloured rubber straps paired with a second black rubber option in the kit. The bracelet and straps all integrate seamlessly into the case and use Maurice Lacroix’s EasyChange system that allows you to swap between them without tools in seconds.
The rubber options on the Technicolour reference mirror the dial tones with blue, orange, green or yellow options and are fitted with a sandblasted black pin buckle, which keeps the overall mood more contemporary and casual than a polished bracelet would. On wrist, the combination of case sculpting, integrated attachment and curved lugs gives good stability, and although the 45 millimetre footprint has presence, it feels coherent with the visual complexity of the dial (this is not a watch trying to hide under a cuff anyway).
With 100 metre water resistance, a robust case and a rubber strap, the Aikon Master Grand Date Technicolour slides comfortably into the “luxury daily sports watch” category that can move from office to weekend without feeling out of place. It is more theatrical than a typical three hander, yet still practical enough to be your main automatic if your style leans bold.
Why the Aikon Master Grand Date is Special
This is the kind of watch that reveals more of its thought process the longer you live with it, and several traits make it stand out in a crowded luxury sports landscape.
- The Aikon Master Grand Date brings an in house ML331 calibre, dial side mechanics and serious finishing into a category often dominated by standard movements and closed casebacks, elevating the watchmaking content significantly for its segment.
- The Technicolour edition adds a playful chromatic punch to the already recognisable Aikon silhouette, offering collectors a more extroverted option than the classic blue or black steel versions without sacrificing technical seriousness
- With 100 metre water resistance, a sturdy case and an easy change strap system, the Aikon Master Grand Date can handle daily life, yet the dial side show and oversized date mean it doubles as a conversation starter at any gathering
- While pricing sits in upper mid tier territory at around €9950, the combination of manufacture movement, intricate casing and dial work, and strong brand design identity positions it as a serious alternative to more established heavy hitters in the steel sports arena
Conclusion
The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grand Date is a confident, characterful fusion of modern steel sports watch design and manufacture watchmaking, leaning heavily into movement visibility and asymmetrical charm. It is not built for minimalists, but for collectors who enjoy dynamic dials, visible mechanics and a bit of wrist theatrics, it hits an appealing sweet spot.
At roughly €10,000, it offers legitimate horological substance and distinctive design at a fraction of what similarly expressive integrated sports pieces from the “usual suspects” would command. If your collection is ready for a bold, openworked conversation piece that still behaves like a real everyday watch, the Aikon Master Grand Date might just be the perfect way to spend a little more quality time with your wrist.
Specifications:
Brand – Maurice Lacroix
Model – Aikon Master Grand Date
Case Material – Stainless steel with black DLC coating, brushed and polished
Case Dimensions – 45 mm diameter, approximately 14 to 15 mm thickness, about 53 mm lug to lug
Water Resistance – 100 m / 10 ATM
Strap – Integrated coloured rubber strap with additional black rubber strap, EasyChange system, sandblasted black pin buckle
Crystal – Sapphire front with anti reflective treatment, sapphire exhibition caseback
Movement – Maurice Lacroix manufacture automatic calibre ML331
Lume –Yes, Super LumiNova on hands and indices depending on variant
Limited Edition –Yes, Technicolour versions typically limited to 50 pieces per colour
Power Reserve – Approx. 50 hours
Price – €9950 approximate incl. VAT
Official store link here.
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About Maurice Lacroix Aikon Master Grand Date: Key Questions Answered
Is the Aikon Master Grand Date suitable for smaller wrists?
With a 45 millimetre case and roughly 53 millimetre lug to lug, it will feel large on smaller wrists but the curved lugs and integrated design help it wear more comfortably than the numbers suggest. I’d say don’t go for it if your wrists are not used to watches this size.
How does the ML331 compare to standard ETA or Sellita movements?
The ML331 is an in house calibre with a unique architecture, dial side balance and integrated big date, delivering more visual interest and a more bespoke layout than typical outsourced three hand plus date movements.
Does the Technicolour version sacrifice legibility for style?
Despite the vibrant colours, the contrast between indices, hands and the dial plus the large date aperture and lume application keeps legibility strong in most conditions.
